Daylily Society Resources

HOW TO GROW DAYLILIES

Daylilies hemerocallis spp. are a perennial providing a rainbow of colorful blooms from white to black. The width of the blooms can be as small as 3 inches to 7 or more inches wide. The flowers rest on leafless stalks known as “scapes” that stand above the foliage. The scapes can be 10 to 66 inches high. Given proper attention, they will multiply on their own. The best varieties for the South are evergreen and semi-evergreen. Dormant varieties are better suited to colder climates.

SOIL

Daylilies adapt well to a variety of soils from clay to sand. Ideally, well-drained moist, fertile loamy soil. The best way to create this soil environment is to add 2-3 inches of compost, mushroom compost, leaf mold, well-rotted manure, pine mulch or peat. The use of these types of organic matter increases earthworms to keep the soil aerated and decreases reliance on commercial fertilizers. When growing daylilies in pots if not dividing yearly the introduction of earthworms will break down the soil which may become non-porous and muddy.

 SUN

Daylilies thrive in full sun with the exception of the darker colors which are better suited to morning sun and less exposure to hot, afternoon sun.

WATER

During the growing season – spring through early fall – the soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. Make sure the plants get about 1 inch of water each week to encourage feeder root production. If rainfall is insufficient or you see foliage wilting or discoloring, water as needed to maintain damp to moist roots and soil. Deep soaking less frequently is better than an everyday splash from a watering can. In the winter dormant season, with slower evaporation and no active growth, be extra careful not to over-water. Too much water from constant rain or over-watering can promote root rot and plant diseases. Watering daylilies in pots or planters: These daylilies will require more attention to watering. Use the finger test each day to check soil moisture. Provide water when the top inch or two of the soil has dried. After a week or two of daily testing, you will know how often to water. Keep the seasons in mind – more water in the summer, less in the winter. Watering daylilies with an automated irrigation system: Set your timer to water during the early morning hours as evening watering can lead to fungus and other foliage diseases. During the first few weeks after planting, check soil moisture often and adjust irrigation to maintain moist soil. During the bloom season overhead watering in the morning will cause discoloration to the blooms. An alternative to morning watering is to water later in the day with enough time left in the day for the plants to dry or hand watering below the bloom height.

FERTILIZER

Green Edge, Milorganite or other bio-solids can be applied year-round without the worry of burning the plants. A low-nitrogen fertilizer will stimulate root growth rather than foliage. In the spring an application of a granular high nitrogen fertilizer is recommended to stimulate fast growth. Water-soluble fertilizers are also recommended in conjunction with granular fertilizer.

WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT

Daylilies can be planted any month of the year in warm climates. Daylilies can also be moved during the bloom season which aids in color groupings and scape heights but may reduce the number of blooms. Excess foliage and scapes, however, should be cut off for quicker recovery. Apply a layer of mulch – pine straw or decomposed leaves and grass clippings – but do not cover the crown of the plant. If you want a dramatic showing of blooms, plant 18 inches apart. If you want to plan for growth, space about three feet apart. Dig a hole the size of the roots. If the soil is sand or heavy clay, add organic matter. Make a cone-shaped mound just below the surface of the soil and place the crown on this mound and angle the roots outwards. This reduces the possibility of root rot. Water when the hole is two-thirds full then replace the rest of the soil with the crown (where the roots and foliage meet) no deeper than one inch below the soil. Leave a slight depression to make watering easier. Cut the foliage back to 6-8 inches and water. Never plant too deep because you can stunt growth.

MULCHING

Mulching has the desirable advantage of retaining moisture and discouraging weeds during the summer months. Do not let the ground dry out for it is nearly impossible to wet the ground unless you remove the mulch. Successful mulching can be done with any number of materials such as pine straw, old sawdust, pine bark, wood shavings and chips, decomposed leaves, and decomposed grass clippings. The mulching material should be about 1-2 inches after it has settled. Be sure to check the soil Ph yearly if using mulching materials and do not smother the crown with mulch material.

DIVIDING PLANTS

Some daylilies respond to division every two to four years. Waiting longer causes overcrowding which may reduce the health of the clump. Cut the clump apart with a knife if necessary. The best time of year to divide and transplant is early to mid-fall as it will promote better spring blooming. Water the transplants often. If introducing potted daylilies into your garden it is recommended to remove them from the pot and thoroughly wash the roots to preclude the introduction of any unwanted weeds or seeds.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Daylilies have few insect problems. Attacks of aphids (spring), thrips (summer), slugs, or spider mites (summer) can be controlled by insecticidal soap, or try introducing ladybugs into the garden. Rust and streak are fungal issues. Thrips – control with Orthene, Pyrethrin, or rotenone but spray multiple times soaking both the tops and bottoms of leaves. It’s best to spray while plants are full of buds. A rust prevention regimen is recommended to establish a preventative spraying program at the onset of the growth season using products such as Fertiloam II and Advantage 3 in 1. Other products are also available at your local garden centers or through the Internet. It is highly recommended to only use chemicals with caution by reading and following product directions.

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ANNUAL MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR DAYLILIES

September 15

1.  Deep spade or rototill to get air in the soil if your soil is compacted.
2.  Add compost
3.  Deep spade or rototill again
4.  Add dolomite lime (the magnesium makes the daylily leaves green).
5.  Apply Milorganite or Green Edge at the time of planting, early spring, and mid-summer after flowers bloom.
6.  Deep spade or rototill again
7.  Wet with a hose
8.  Prepare (cut off tops and root trim) plants to put back in the ground
9.  Put two handfuls of Milorganite or Green Edge in the daylily hole.
10.  Plant 2 to 3 fans in a hole.

October, November, December, and January

1.  Make your first application of a mineral fertilizer such as 6-6-6. Do this once.
2.  If days are warm, check for aphids or other pests. Spray for thrips in January and February, if needed.
3.  Apply Miracle Grow once a week.

February

1.  Water twice a day – morning and sunset.
2. Increase nitrogen with 16-4-8. You want to grow the root system large and quickly.
3.  Miracle Grow every week.
4.  Add dolomite lime (the magnesium makes the daylily leaves green).

March, April, and May

Repeat what you did in February but after April, water only once a day. Deadhead spent blooms.

June, July, and August

1.  Fertilize with Milorganite or Green Edge.
2.  Remove unwanted seed pods, spent blooms, and scapes.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Remove yellowed leaves throughout the growing season to encourage the plant to produce new leaves. Remove spent blooms to keep the plant tidy. Once a scape has bloomed out all the buds, remove it from the plant.

Avoid allowing daylilies to go to seed which distracts energy from flower production. Remove the seed pods. Hybrid daylily seeds will not grow true to the parent.

Daylilies thrive on high fertility, good drainage, and moist conditions.

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Selecting Daylilies For The Landscape

When selecting daylilies for your landscape, think about the following:

1.  Choose daylilies that grow, over winter, and perform well in our area. Try to avoid “dormant” varieties as they perform better in colder climates. In the South, select evergreen and semi-evergreen daylilies.
2.  Choose daylilies from several blooming seasons to extend the season:

Extra Early – These daylilies are the first to bloom, and vary from March or April in the extreme South, to May or June in the north.

Early – These daylilies bloom three to five weeks prior to the mass of bloom at midseason.

Early Midseason – These daylilies bloom one to three weeks before the height of bloom of most cultivars.

Midseason – These daylilies bloom at the peak of the daylily bloom in your own garden. This ranges from May in the South to July in the North.

Late Midseason – These daylilies bloom one to three weeks after the height or peak of bloom in your garden.

Late – These daylilies bloom when most others have finished blooming, usually four to six weeks after the peak of the season.

Very Late – These daylilies are the last to bloom, often late in the summer in the South, fall in the North.

Rebloomer – These daylilies bloom more than one time during a single season. Some bloom early (e.g., May or June) and then repeat in the fall. Others have a succession of bloom periods, one shortly after another for several months. (from American Daylily Society website)

3.  Choose daylilies with good branching to display its flowers and carry more buds. This information is available on the American Daylily database.

4.  Choose daylilies with a high bud count for lots of flowers. Again, check the database.

5.  Choose daylilies likely to stand up to the heat.

These American Daylily Society links may be helpful in making your selections:

Award of Merit – this award is given to signify that a cultivar performs well over a wide geographic area. The award is given each year to the twelve registered daylilies receiving the most votes by the garden judges under the following formula: A cultivar must receive votes from at least half of the regions, and not more than one-third of the total votes credited to a cultivar shall come from any one region. See Award of Merit.

Stout Silver Medal – This is the highest award a cultivar can receive. This annual award–as voted by AHS Garden judges–can be given only to a cultivar that has first received the Award of Merit. See Stout Silver Medal.

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